Camera trapping - What to purchase? The costs?

The starting price of to get into camera trapping is high, at minimum it requires a sensor and a camera. with just these your only luck of photographing an animal would be in good light. I use the Camtraptions PIR sensor, it senses when there is a big change in temperature in front of the sensor, so if an animal walks in front of it it will send a signal to the camera to take a picture. there are other options including the cactus motion sensor and cognisys.

I'm a Nikon user and I use my old D5300 and 18-55 VRII. the camera to the left id what I would recommend. 24mp DSLR with a lens included. But its up to you what you want to use, you could use a Nikon D850 if you were so inclined but its your decision how much you are willing to risk if this camera gets damaged or stolen. These cameras also will work for a very long time out in the field on a single battery; over 800 shots.

Here is the Camtraptions PIR sensor, there are two versions with a £18 difference. the PIR v3 includes wireless signal transmission; this will send a signal to your receivers that trigger the camera and flashes to go off. although I have this version I have used it only once. the triggering time with a wire is faster and more reliable. one less thing to go wrong in my book. I have my camera wired to the sensor and a transmitter connected to receivers on my flashes.

On that note, you would think that you could use any flash; that's right, any flash will work but its the longevity of a flash out in the field. the Nikon SB-28 will automatically go into standby mode and stop using the battery's to charge the capacitors that power the flash. I've had flashes out for 4 weeks before considering to change battery's. I would normally change the flash battery's around the same time I change the camera battery (so around 800 triggers). the same again goes for the triggers, you could use and but the camtraptions triggers are by the far the best for longevity and reliability so no question of a doubt I recommend these.

along with the sensor if you do go the wired route you'll need the cables. the first cable is the camera connecting cable, on most Nikon sits the DC2 cable. this cable will stretch to around 50cm; so I would also recommend the 5m extension cable. I've never had the cable fully extended but if I needed to I have the option. and its always a good idea to run your cables up across and down to the sensor or camera to avoid if getting nibbled on.

finally you have to power these, at the minimum you would have two flashes meaning two receivers, 2 flashes, 1 transmitter and the sensor that require battery's.

4 AA batteries per flash

2 AAA batteries per receiver/transmitter

6 AA batteries in the sensor.

to save yourself money overtime I recommend getting rechargeable batteries. in the long run it will save you money.

I would recommend to have double the amount of batteries so that you can have a spare set charging to replace when you check on your camera trap (I don't see the point doubling the amount for the sensor as they last for a godly amount of time) so that's;

14 AA and 12 AAA.

Now you have your equipment you have to put it out in the field. you can just put these up and put them in zip lock bags and that will work but one day if water seeps through or it gets torn apart by a badger (happened to me) you'll wish you went for something a little more robust. I use the pelicase to the right, with modifications i made including adjustable stand and screw in filter it works great. for the flashes its much simpler, a food storage container that's big enough to hold the flashes and receivers attached. I spray paint all over it apart from the side where the flash shines through so that the whole box doesn't light up like a torch when the flash is triggered.

Now the pelicase i used obviously needs work doing to before it can actually work.

but if you don't have some basic handyman skills or equipment you might be better off getting camtraptions camera housing that will fit any camera, has tripod mounts, lens hood and filter installed then that would be the choice. but considering its worth £200 its a very expensive box.

My Pelicase costs -

Pelicase £25

filter £13

Arca swiss release plate and screw £14

60mm hole saw £11

optional 6" RAM mount £30

(this works great, sturdy and works better then most tripod ball heads

Total - £93

This doesn't include the price of the drill or screws.

the mini tripod head to the right is what i have attached to the bottom of my flash boxes so I can mount them to a tripod with the functionality to move it around when mounted.

These two camera mounts are are great as well, to mount to the flashes or the sensor so they can hang on a branch or drilled into posts or trees.

The reason I recommend these tripods for when mounting to posts, trees or branches isn't an option then this sturdy, wide metal tripod can be stabbed into the ground.

with the RAM mount I use it is screwed into a wide wooden platform, when I don't want it floor level i screw it into trees to get a higher angle so having this small portable hand drill is a crucial bit of equipment.

now you have to carry all this equipment, you can go down the route of buying a large camera bag with sections that will fit all this equipment but I found this £20 mountain warehouse backpack/duffle that carries all my equipment with ease.

all together if you go bare basics with 2 flashes, wired sensor and use zip lock bags that's £621.

If you then make your own box, exclude the drill it'll cost £779.

I was lucky enough to already have a spare camera body so my cost wasn't so bad but it definitely is an expensive part of photography.

My next blog I will go into details on how to build your own Camera trap case. using the items mentioned above, pelicase, Ram mount, 60mm hole saw, 62mm filter and Arca swiss mount.

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